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Directions
Directions
Less than 10 minutes from the parking lot to High Noon and Cowgirl.
From the parking, go straight after the bridge, then either take La Douce for the First Boulders, or Sweet Cap for High Noon and the rest.
If you see a big downhill rock ramp for mountain bike on your right, turn around, you just missed High Noon.
The map below shows the area and the trails to follow. The button in the top left corner will open the full map, which can show your position in real time while in the park.
Lonesome George
Lonesome George
1. Lonesome George (V1/2) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start on the left of the face with low jug on the arete, climb to the peak and exit
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
2. The Last of His Kind (V1) (VIDEO 1)
- sit start on the right of the face with right side-pull below the lip and a right hand on a higher side-pull
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
The second boulder you encounter on the Sweet Cap trail. (GPS)
MD/PHD & Standoff
MD/PHD & Standoff
Short Round is the second boulder you encounter on the La Douce trail.
1. Short Round (V2) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand/crouch start as shown with left hand on the ledge and right hand low on the very slopey part of the arete.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
A bit further along the La Douce trail is a bigger boulder (GPS) with some good lines:
2. Spurs (V0)
- More of a game than a line: go up with no hands. (Also the downclimb)
3a. PHD (V2) ★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- sit start matched on the good low edge, climb up and left of the bulge
FA: Dominique Robitaille (2026)
3b. MD (V3) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- start as PHD but move left under the bulge to exit
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
4. Man With No Name (V1) (VIDEO 1)
- climb the slab/dihedral
FA: Jean Raby (2026)
5a. The Standoff (V5) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- on the other side of the PHD/MD boulder
- sit start on the right side of the long sloping lip, traverse left and then mantle
FA: Cornelius Froese (2026)
5b. Frontier Jusice (V0) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- a few metres to the left of The Standoff, stand start with right hand on the jug and left hand on an undercling below. Exit at the peak.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
A bit further along the La Douce trail is a small compression boulder.
6. Frickin Fabulous Fridge (V2) (VIDEO 1) (GPS)
- sit start as shown with hands on the arête (or the hold past the left arête).
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
TWO Walls
TWO Walls
WALL 1: Good, Bad, Ugly
WALL 1: Good, Bad, Ugly
This wall is under development and has many possible lines.
1. The Ugly (V0-) (VIDEO 1)
- sit start using crimps or side-pulls
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
2. The Bad (V0) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start and layback your way up the sidepull rail
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
3. The Good (V0+) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start matched on the jug and climb up left and left
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
4. project
5. project
6. Mousse d'autome (V0) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- climb the line of sharp jugs and the dark part of the face
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
Hard problems need FAs to the left of Mousse d'autome.
Gunslinger
Gunslinger
- on a small block facing the wall
1. Gunslinger (V3) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- crouch start with right hand on the right arete and left hand lower on a sloper side-pull
FA: Cornelius Froese (2026)
WALL 2: Overlord
WALL 2: Overlord
Tenderfoot (V0) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start with big underclings, exit up and left onto the slab
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
Project
- stand start on curved rail
Underlord Project
- sit start at the far left of the lower diagonal crack, undercling your way up to the roof and exit as Overlord
Overlord (V1) ★★★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand start with hands in the dish and surf the upper diagonal crack to exit on the slab at right.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
Project (Vhard)
The Wild West: High Noon & Cowgirl
The Wild West: High Noon & Cowgirl
1. Cowgirl (V6?) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- sit start with left hand on low side-pull and right hand on diagonal crack, exit straight up with a hard mantel
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
- 1b. Cowgirl traverse (V5?) ★★: Sit start as for Cowgirl, get the lip, traverse right to the exit of High Noon. (VIDEO 1)
FA: David Lacasse (2026)
2. High Noon (V8) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start matched on large side-pull rail, make a couple of hard moves and mantel.
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
3. Blazing Saddles (V2) (VIDEO 1)
- sit start left of the arete, gain the slab, and continue
FA: Cornelius Froese and Andrew Hendry (2025)
4. Vol de Grand Chemin (V0)
- On the opposite side of the boulder. Climb the tall slab face on good holds. There's delicate footwork up top
5. La Pointe (V0)
- To the right of the previous line, climb the feature using the undercling crack and the arete
6. Pink Pony (V0) (VIDEO 1)
- climb the slab
FA: Valerie Gilbert (2025)
La Légende de Peewee-Miyagi
La Légende de Peewee-Miyagi
1. Days of Future Past (V1) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start at far left with hands on arête/lip, traverse the lip, and mantel to the right of the peak.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
2. Burden of Genes (V4) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start matched on low rail, gain the lip, traverse left to the peak, and mantel up to the right of the peak
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
3. various options nearby (unclimbed)
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