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River Gods
Sundial
Directions and Orientation
Directions and Orientation
About 20 minutes from parking to Sundial.
Sweetcap until it joins Swiss #19
Swiss #19 until it crosses the creek over some ladders
Turn left before the ladders
After a few minutes, turn right on a herd path before a small boulder
The map below shows the area and the trails to follow. The button in the top left corner will open the full map, which can show your position in real time while in the park.
Note: as you walk along the first half of the Sweetcap trail, you walk past some excellent boulders (MD/PHD/Cowgirl/High Noon)
They have their own page here: Sweetcap / The Wild West
1. Sundial (V6)🔥(VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, VIDEO 3)
Crouch start with one hand under the lip and one hand low on the arete, climb arete to the apex.
FA: Ben Wilder (2025)
The FA started sitting, but most people now start crouched with the right hand a bit higher on the arete (start move is easier but grade is the same)
It is possible to trade the interesting foot work higher up for a spooky exit by rolling onto the slab early: Sundial Direct (V4/5?) (VIDEO 1).
3. Hourglass (V3) ☠️
Start matched as Le Chapelier and head right and up
FA: Cornelius Froese & Louis-Richard Mercier (2025)
4. Le Chapelier (V10) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
Start matched on good lip hold, climb up and left on crimps
FA: Marc-Antoine Vigneault (2025)
4a. Le Chapelier Fou (V8) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
Instead of heading left, go straight up using holds to the right
FA: Émile Baril (2025)
6. Climb the slab (V0)
7. Éternité (V1/2) (VIDEO 1)
Stand start with wide span (right hand on the lowest sloper) and climb up
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
8. Teardrop (V7?) ★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
Crouch start, LH low sloper, RH bottom of the crack small crimp, climb up the "tear drop".
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
Teardrop – high (V2) ★ (VIDEO 1)
Stand start LH high on the good slopey bulge, RH where it feels good in the crack, get on top of the “tear”, head left along the crack, exit as desired
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
Tearcrack (V6?) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
Sit start matching the bottom of the crack.
Starting one move in, RH in the small low crimp, LH in the comfortable one makes for a very nice V3/4.
FA: Lauren Elsenhans (2025)
9. Wrinkles (V3) ★
Start matched on the high rail and smeared feet to eventually reach a high jug.
9a. V5: Starting left hand on the thin crimp line, right hand on a high sloper/pinch is a nice alternative start (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
The original start V8: matched on the thin crimp line with poor feet; reach the high rail. (VIDEO 1)
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
10. Propaganda (V5) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
Sit start, surf the arete until it is possible to pull right to finish in Wrinkles
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
11. Conspiracy (V2/3) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
Sit start, mantle directly onto the slab and climb up
FA: Joshua Pereira (2025)
12. The Fullness of Time (V0?)
Stand start and climb the slab the easiest way you can.
1. something is possible here (unclimbed)
2. Cosmonaute de L’Enfer (V4) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- start on small slopey crimps as shown at right, make a big move to the lip and mantle
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
3. The Flying Frenchman (V4) ★★ ☠️ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- stand start with right hand on a side-pull on the face and left hand on the lower part of the arete (3b). Note: this was first done at V3 starting from one-move in (left hand higher on the arete - 3a) by Maxime Delisle (2025) (VIDEO 1)
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
- is a sit start possible?
4. Just Another Dyno (V2) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- start matched on the ledge and dyno
FA: Joshua Pereira (2025)
5. Vhard project
6. One Hit Wonder (V3) (VIDEO 1)
- Start with a high right and a lower left side pull (as shown) – then dyno
FA: Joshua Pereira (2025)
- a much harder low start is possible
1. Poséidon (V6/7) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- Départ assis avec un choix de pied bas, main droite inversée au bas de la rampe, main gauche dans la fissure peu généreuse. Rejoindre la série d'aplats et s'échapper vers la gauche.
FA: Jean Raby (2026)
1a. Poséidon Stand (V3/4) (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- The original start; stand start RH on the rail, LH in an undercling crimper, feet on a choice of "great" holds, make a big move to the lip above
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
1b. La Traverse de Poséidon (V6/7) (VIDEO 1)
- Départ dans la grosse inversée sous l'arête, rejoindre Poséidon
2. Water Strider (V5/6) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- sit start matched on the massive undercling, find your way to the left side of the arete, climb up using the arete and face holds, exit a bit farther left (an amazing high two-finger pocket makes the top-out possible)
Easier for taller folks who can keep their feet on the ramp to do the harder bit.
FA: Cedar Hendry (2025)
possible lines
Sickle Cell
possible lines
The Big Short
possible lines
Argh? / ARGH!
Hard A Port
Misfortune Flavours The Old
6. Argh? (V3) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand start in compression as shown above, climb up, trend left
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
7. ARGH! (V5) ★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- sit/crouch start in compression (both hands lower than the above) and join Argh?
FA: Ben Wilder (2025)
8. Hard A Port (V2/3) (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- start with both hands on the vertical rail as shown, find your way to the top
FA: Ben Wilder (2025)
9. Misfortunate Flavours The Old (V2) (VIDEO 1)
– sit start with right hand on arete and left hand on crimp edge
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
Outlying Boulders
Outlying Boulders
A few boulders farther upstream (along trail 20) or downstream (just upstream of trail 19) of River Gods were climbed by Antoine Seguin and David Lacasse. The grades and names are not yet known.
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