Embedded Files
River Gods
Sundial
Directions and Orientation
Directions and Orientation
About 25 minutes from parking to Sundial.
The map below starts on the Sweetcap trail and then follows a mix of official trails and herd paths.
Check the waypoints for details and pictures.
The full screen button in the upper right should open in Google Maps and allow for real time tracking.
Note: as you walk along the first half of the Sweetcap trail, you walk past some excellent boulders (MD/PHD/Cowgirl/High Noon)
They have their own page here: Sweetcap / The Wild West
Directions and General Orientation (old instructions)
(25 min walk from parking to Sundial)
THE GREEN TRACK BELOW IS A MIX OF TRAILS
a) Parking – start on “Lover’s Leap” trail
b) After only 30 m or so, when the Lover’s Leap trail turns sharp left up the hill, instead turn right on “La Douce” bike trial.
c) Continue on La Douce (cutting corners as desired) until it meets the snowshoe trail number 17 at a creek crossing. Cross the creek and head up and over the hill. Google Maps link: 45°55'52.4"N, 74°16'23.1"W
d) On the other side of the hill, hop 15 m to the right and continue on the La Suisse (19) ski trail. Google Maps link: 45°55'58.1"N, 74°16'17.5"W
e) Go a short distance on the 19 until a small trail heads left along a rock face – take that walking trail. Google Maps link: 45°56'01.0"N, 74°16'16.7"W
f) When the trail turns left up a hill (which goes up behind Too Far Gone), angle right along the ridge (no trail) to Sundial, which is on the top of the hill above a creek. Google Maps link: 45°56'17.1"N, 74°15'47.4"W
g) Sundial Google Maps link: 45°56'09.1"N, 74°16'10.0"W
h) To get to Sickle Cell, cross the creek and go right on the Lac Green trail for just a few minutes. The bloc is on your left right before a “swamp” crossing. Google Maps link: 45°56'08.9"N 74°16'04.3"W
Drone views of trails, Sundial, and Sickle Cell.
Note: the North-South orientation here is the opposite of the previous map.
The Fullness of Time
Conservative Conspiracy
Woke Propaganda
Wrinkles
Teardrop
Éternité
climb the slab
Moondial
Le Chapelier
Hourglass
Chronos
Sundial
1. The Fullness of Time (V0?)
- stand start and climb the slab the easiest way you can.
2. Conservative Conspiracy (V2/3) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start as shown, mantle directly onto the slab at left and climb up
FA: Joshua Pereira (2025)
3. Woke Propaganda (V5) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- start as shown, surf the arete to the top, using the right side-pull on the face to the right.
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
4. Wrinkles (V7/8) (VIDEO 1)
- sit matched on the tiny crimp line with a low foot (height dependent), establish and then jump up and left to the rail and exit straight up.
- Starting on the left hand of Teardrop High is a nice alternative start.
- Starting from the rail (jump start) goes at V3
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
5a. Teardrop – high (V2) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand start as shown at right, get on top of the “tear”, head left along the crack, exit as desired
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
5b. Teardrop – low (V7/8) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- crouch start as shown at right, climb into the high start (4a) and exit as that problem
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
5b. Tearcrack (V5) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start matched in the crack
FA: Lauren Elsenhans (2025)
6. Éternité (V1/2) (VIDEO 1)
- stand start with wide span (right hand on the lowest sloper) and climb up
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
7. Climb the slab (V0)
8. Moondial (V5) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- stand matched as shown above, surf the arete until you can mantel on the lip and climb to the top
FA: Cornelius Froese & Louis-Richard Mercier (2025)
9a. Le Chapelier (V10) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- start matched on good lip hold, climb up and left on crimps
FA: Marc-Antoine Vigneault (2025)
9b. Le Chapelier Fou (V8) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- Instead of heading left, morpho dyno straight up
FA: Émile Baril (2025)
10. Hourglass (V3) ☠️
- start matched as Le Chapelier
and head right and up
FA: Cornelius Froese & Louis-Richard Mercier (2025)
11. Chronos (V4) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- stand with good opposing side pulls (as shown above) and use an amazing shallow scoop above your head to attain the arete and left and then climb up the crack/ledge
FA: Cornelius Froese & Louis-Richard Mercier (2025)
12. Sundial (V6)🔥(VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, VIDEO 3)
- crouch start with one hand under the lip and one hand low on the arete, climb arete to the apex
- the FA position is shown at right, but most people now start crouched with the right hand a bit higher on the arete (start move is easier but grade is the same)
FA: Ben Wilder (2025)
- It is possible to avoid the interesting foot work higher up by rolling onto the slab early: Sundial Direct (V4/5?).
1. something is possible here (unclimbed)
2. Cosmonaute de L’Enfer (V4) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- start on small slopey crimps as shown at right, make a big move to the lip and mantle
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
3. The Flying Frenchman (V4) ★★ ☠️ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- same as above but the left hand is lower on the arete (below the bulge) – as shown at right. Note: this was first done at V3 starting from one-move in (left hand higher on the arete) by Maxime Delisle (2025) (VIDEO 1)
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
- is a sit start possible?
4. Just Another Dyno (V2) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- start matched on the ledge and dyno
FA: Joshua Pereira (2025)
5. Vhard project
6. One Hit Wonder (V3) (VIDEO 1)
- Start with a high right and a lower left side pull (as shown) – then dyno
FA: Joshua Pereira (2025)
- a much harder low start is possible
1a. Poseidon (V3/4) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- stand start as shown in the images below
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
1b. Poseidon - low (Proj)
- sit or crouch start with both hands along low cracks
2. Water Strider (V6) ★★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start matched on the massive undercling, find your way to the left side of the arete, climb up using the arete and face holds, exit a bit farther left (an amazing high two-finger pocket makes the top-out possible)
FA: Cedar Hendry (2025)
3a. River Gods (V3)🔥☠️ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, VIDEO 3)
- stand start and climb up
FA: Louis-Richard Mercier & David Thibodeau (2025)
3b. River Gods - sit (V4?) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start with the huge undercling (same start position as Water Strider)
FA: Jean Raby (2025)
possible lines
Sickle Cell
possible lines
The Big Short
possible lines
Argh? / ARGH!
Hard A Port
Misfortune Flavours The Old
6. Argh? (V3) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand start in compression as shown above, climb up, trend left
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
7. ARGH! (V5) ★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- sit/crouch start in compression (both hands lower than the above) and join Argh?
FA: Ben Wilder (2025)
8. Hard A Port (V2/3) ★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- start with both hands on the vertical rail as shown, find your way to the top
FA: Ben Wilder (2025)
9. Misfortunate Flavours The Old (V2) (VIDEO 1)
– sit start with right hand on arete and left hand on crimp edge
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
Outlying Boulders
Outlying Boulders
A few boulders farther upstream (along trail 20) or downstream (just upstream of trail 19) of River Gods were climbed by Antoine Seguin and David Lacasse. The grades and names are not yet known.
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