Embedded Files
General Directions and Orientation
(15-20 min walk from parking to La Bête)
1. Start on Lover’s Leap trail. When it turns and heads uphill to the left, instead head downhill
2. You will soon hit a very old over-grown road. Turn left and walk along the road.
3. Follow the (very) old road until it crosses a creek, turn left just before the creek crossing, and follow the faint winding trail along the creek (keeping the creek on your right).
4. Just a few meters after you pass a ~5 m high waterfall, you will find the boulders on the other side of the creek.
5. Head pretty much straight uphill (no trail) to get from Tracking to La Bête.
6. Continue up-hill, angling about 45 degrees to the left to find Orthanc.
7. Mo-no-rail, Flesh Eater, Triangle Therapy, The Expanse, I Miss Us, etc. are just 20 m up the hill from the trail (and visible through the trees)
This area is organized into the following blocs/groups:
1. Turn That Frown (V0-)★ (VIDEO)
- climb up the slab beside the arête
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
2. Why So Sad? (V1)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the low sloping shelf, reach for the arête and finish as Turn That Frown
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
3. Frown Sugar (V2)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the big in-cut ledge, find your way to the arête, climb up the triangle face, and exit left of the razor-back ridge
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
4. Triangle Therapy (V3) ★★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the smaller low in-cut edge to the left of Frown Sugar, climb up the triangular face, and exit as Frown Sugar
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
5. Can I Play With Madness? (V4) ★★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the small crimp at the far left, find your way to the top via the face and then the slab, without using the right arête
FA: A. Lévesque & C. Hendry (2024)
6. Lost in Space (V2/3)★
- stand start and climb the slab
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
7. Doofus (V0-)
- stand start and climb the easy dihedral
FA: Adrien Lévesque (2024)
8. Curious George (V0+)★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start and climb up
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
9. The Expanse (V3)★ (VIDEO)
- stand start with very wide span as shown
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
10. The Man In the Yellow Hat (V2/3)★ (VIDEO)
- sit start with left hand on arête and right hand on side pull
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
11. Shifting Baseline (V0/1)★ (VIDEO)
- sit start matched on crimp and climb up/left
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
12. Reverse Engineering (V4)★ (VIDEO)
- stand start with left hand low on arête and right on crack crimp
- a lower (sit) start will be possible
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
13. No Footsies (V2/3)★★ (VIDEO)
- stand start on good hold to the left side of the lip, make a few to the right and “mantle motherfucker”
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
14. Walk Like An Egyptian (Vfun)🤡 (VIDEO)
- walk up the slab (no hands, no knees) to the left of No Footsies
Shifting baseline
Shifting baseline
behemoth
behemoth
17. Comfortably Dumb (V2) (VIDEO)
- start matched on the side-pull under-cling as shown, no dabbing the rock behind
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
18. Wake Up Dead (V3)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit (or stand) as shown with both hands at chest height (but not higher for V3)
- harder if you are short
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
19. Everything Is Balance (V4/5)★★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- climb the face
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
20. I Miss Us (V4/5)★★☠️☠️ (VIDEO)
- climb the face
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
21. Crybaby (V2)🔥 ☠️ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- climb the face
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
24. Tunnel Vision (V2/3) ★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start matched on low rail, climb up and left without dabbing
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
25. Mo-no-rail (V4)★★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start with hands in crack, use right arête and face holds or mono
FA: Adrien Lévesque (2024)
26. Mo-no-rail – sit (V5)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start as Tunnel Vision and join Mo-no-rail
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
caffeine addict
caffeine addict
29. Caffeine Addict (V3/4)★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start at the mouth of the cave with hands on the big sloper
- climb along the lower rail and exit up the peak
- harder if you are tall
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
30. Decaf Detox (V1/2)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start at the vase of the arête, pull on, roll around the arête, and climb up the peak
FA: George Farfour (2024)
31. Half and Half (V0)★ (VIDEO)
- stand start with left hand the rail and right hand on the arête, climb up
32. Bait (V0-) (VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the big ledge and climb straight up
33. Switch (V0+)
- start as Bait but move left to the crimps on the face
lowball legenD & flesh eater
lowball legenD & flesh eater
34. Bust A Move (V2)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- crouch start with opposing side-pulls as shown
FA: Adrien Lévesque (2024)
35. Flesh Eater (V4)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start on the big (and very low) shelf
- multiple starting betas are possible
- don't dab the ground
FA: Adrien Lévesque (2024)
36. Lowball Legend (V2)★★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the side pull jug/crack, traverse the lip to exit up the far side
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
37. Ain’t Rocket Science (V2)★ (VIDEO)
- sit start with left hand on lip and right hand VERY low on arête
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
rocket science
rocket science
38. Few and Far Between (V2/3)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- stand with left on diagonal rail and right low on arête, make big moves between great holds and (for full value) exit left of the peak
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
- for a (V5) sit start (FA: Brandon Heckmann 2024 - VIDEO) use the same right hand and put your left hand lower on the diagonal rail. It’s a savage first move
39. Fuck The Establishment (V3/4) (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- stand start with left on tiny sharp crimp and right hand on arête at the same height, establish with difficulty, and (for full value) exit right of the peak. THIS ONE IS MUCH EASIER IF YOU SHORT
FA: Andrew Hendry & Cornelius Froese (2024)
40. Rocket Science (V6)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start with left on arête and right on the crimp, climb up
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
41. The Best For Last? (V4) 🤡 (VIDEO)
- start on your back, establish with a bat-hang, invert, and mantel
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
This area is organized into the following blocs/groups:
1. Parallel Lines (V3)★ (VIDEO)
- start matched low on the arête (toe hook can help), make your way to the crack and finish as Taki
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
2. Taki (V2)★★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start matched in the crack, climb up the cracks and exit at the top
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
3. Project
4. Project
5. Outside The Lines – stand (V2) ★
- left hand on a funky pocket, right hand on the arête at the same height, exit at the peak
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
6. Outside The Lines – sit (V4)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the arête, finish as above
FA: David Rea (2024)
7. Tracking (V7+)★★★ (VIDEO)
- stand start with left on side-pull rail and right on low under-cling
FA: Noah Napier
8. Flicking (V3)★★ (VIDEO)
- stand start on small crimps, climb up and right to exit as Tracking
FA: Fernando Siete (2024)
9. Shadow Kings (V3/4) ★★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start with crimps as shown below and climb up
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
10. A Snail’s Pace (V2) (VIDEO)
- sit start as shown
- bump right hand to better hold, throw your left for the rail, fight the pad-dab
FA: Louis-Richard Mercier (2024)
11. Flow Like Water (V5/6)★★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start as shown and surf the lip to the arête
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
12. A-Spot (V8)★ (VIDEO)
- sit start as shown below, join G-Spot
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
13. G-Spot [AKA Prostate Exam] (V6) ★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start as shown below, climb the crack and arête
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
14. C-Spot (V8)★ (VIDEO)
- sit start as shown below, make a huge move with your left
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
15. Too Tall To Ride (V4)★ (VIDEO)
- climb the slab, much harder if you are too short to reach the crack
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
orthanc, La BÊTE, & La Belle
orthanc, La BÊTE, & La Belle
This area is organized into the following blocs/groups:
La Bête - Left Side (Harder Brutus, Selfish People, Hustle and Flow)
La Bête - Right Side (Bella Bestia, Chocolatine, Pain au Chocolat)
1. The Winding Stair (V1/2)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit/crouch start matched on slanting jug, and climb the face to the left
FA: Max Banel (2023)
2. What Do You Smell? (V4)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start as above, transition under the tree, climb to the peak
FA: Max Banel (2023)
3. Man-Flesh! (V7) (VIDEO)
- start as above, traverse on crimps to right arête, exit as Orthanc Direct
FA: Max Banel (2023)
4. Orthanc (V6)🔥 (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start with left hand on a very low side-pull and right hand on the arête, attain the arête, exit at the peak
FA: Max Banel (2023)
5. Orthanc Direct (V6-)★★ (VIDEO)
- start as Orthanc but don’t use the left arête, transition high-up to the slab
FA: Max Banel (2023)
6. Old Forest Road (V1)★ (VIDEO)
- climb slab without using the big crack out right
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
7. Précis (V1)🤡 (VIDEO)
- step on pedestal, use a finger or thumb catch to balance, match the hold (stable!), then exit left of peak
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
8. Imprécis (V3)★ (VIDEO)
- left hand on high sloper, right hand on crimp at crack, exit right
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
9. Le Tabouret (V3)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- stand start matched on good hold, make one move right to large ledge, mantel and reach
FA: Adrien Lévesque (2024)
10. Giants On My Shoulders (V1)★ (VIDEO)
- start as Le Tabouret, continue along the crack, exit up the slab
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
11. Spread Em (V4) (VIDEO)
- crouch start as shown at right and join Le Tabouret
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
12. Smokey and the Bandit (V2)★ (VIDEO)
- stand start with hands on the crimps and up she goes
FA: Cornelius Froese (2024)
13. Hustle and Flow (V4)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start on sloping holds (↑)
- stack pads or crouch as needed; left toe-hook can help the start
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
14. Harder Brutus (V8/9)★★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start, make a big move left to the good lip hold
- climb up the bulge using the crack (right-hand image)
FA: Adrien Lévesque (2024)
15. Selfish People Live Longer (V6)🔥(VIDEO & VIDEO)
- jump start (one pad only) to starting holds (→)
- traverse the crack, exit at the arête, and finish up the slab
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
16. Égomania (V8)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- stand start on decent crimps, transition through a smaller crimp above, and join Selfish People …
FA: Brandon Heckmann (2024)
17. Remember Tomorrow (V2)★ (VIDEO)
- stand start with right hand on arête and left on obvious side-pull, move right of arête and climb up
FA: Andrew Hendry (2024)
18. Pain Au Chocolat – stand (V3)★★★ (VIDEO)
- start as Remember Tomorrow, but stay left of arête until logical top-out
- for a sit start, see below
FA: Jay Jeong (2024)
19. Ghostbusters (V4/5) ★☠️☠️☠️ (VIDEO)
- climb the start of Pain Au Chocolat (stand) and then continue onto the face for a high exit
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
20. Pain Au Chocolat – sit (V5)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start matched on the obvious shelf on arete
FA: Zach Rodrigue (2024)
21. Chocolatine* (V8)🔥(VIDEO & VIDEO)
- sit start matched on opposing side pulls
FA: Antoine Seguin (2024)
22. Bella Bestia (V11/V12)★★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start matched on side-pull undercling, cross high to the arete and up
FA: Adrien Lévesque (2024)
23. Bella Bestia Facile★ (V9)*
- start as Bella Bestia, make a move to the jug, move right and down to join Chocolatine
FA: Antoine Seguin (2024)
24. Mental Mantel (V2)★ (VIDEO)
- sit start at the far right, traverse the lip to the saddle, and mantle
FA: Gabrielle Lusignan (2023)
25. La Belle (V6)🔥 (VIDEO & VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start as above and continue to the peak (don’t mantle at saddle)
FA: Brian Fernandes (2024)
26. Lune de Miel (V7)★★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- crouch start with right hand on undercling gaston and left on crimp/pinch , finish on La Belle
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
27. Lune de Sang (V7/8) ★★☠️ (VIDEO)
- stand with high foot, right hand on lowest side-pull, left on small face side-pull crimp, exit straight up
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
28. Lune Lite (V3)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- start as Lune de Sang but roll left for the exit
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
29. Power Inverter (V2)★★ (VIDEO)
- sit start with hands matched on low shelf, bat-hang the big ledge, grab ledge, un-invert, exit left on slab. (Still probably V2 - but soft - if you just start on the ledge.)
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
30. Blood Sacrifice (V4)★ (VIDEO & VIDEO)
- stand start with right hand on big side pull, find some feet you “like”, get bloody on a big move, exit up the high slab
FA: Jean-Marc Grenier (2024)
BONUS LOWBALL:
31. The Feat of Giants (V2)★ (VIDEO)
- sit start as shown below with left hand on side-pull and right hand on low side-pull jug, exit left of the peak
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
the wild west
the wild west
1. Days of Future Past (V1) ★
- sit start at far left with hands on arête/lip, traverse the lip, and mantel to the right of the peak.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
2. Burden of Genes (V4)★ ★
- sit start matched on low rail, gain the lip, traverse left to the peak, and mantel up to the right of the peak
FA: Andrew Hendry (2023)
3. various options nearby (unclimbed)
1. Cowgirl (V6) ★
- sit start with left hand on low side-pull and right hand on diagonal crack, exit straight up with a hard mantel
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
2. High Noon (V8)★ ★
- sit start matched on large side-pull rail, make a couple of hard moves and mantel.
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
3. Blazing Saddles (V2)
- sit start left of the arete, gain the slab, and continue
FA: Cornelius Froese and Andrew Hendry (2025)
4. slab (unclimbed)
5. Pink Pony (V0)
- climb the slab
FA: Valerie Gilbert (2025)
6. The Legend of Peewee-Miyagi (V5?) ★★★☠️☠️☠️
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
7. Eagle Fang Karate (V4?)★★☠️☠️
FA: Yann Gauthier (2024)
8. various highball options (unclimbed
outlying boulders
outlying boulders
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