Embedded Files
Cette section a été développée en grande partie par Andrew Hendry et son crew. Je n'ai pas eu le temps d'updater la section comme il faut, donc pour l'instant j'ai copié son topo textuellement(avec son accord). Seulement en anglais. Les cotations et le nombre d’étoiles présentés ici peuvent différer de ceux utilisés ailleurs sur le site.
General Directions and Orientation
(15-20 min walk from parking to La Bête)
GPS on subsequent pages
1. Start on Lover’s Leap trail. When it turns and heads uphill to the left, instead head downhill
2. You will soon hit a very old over-grown road. Turn left and walk along the road.
3. Follow the (very) old road until it crosses a creek, turn left just before the creek crossing, and follow the faint winding trail along the creek (keeping the creek on your right).
4. Just a few meters after you pass a ~5 m high waterfall, you will find the boulders on the other side of the creek.
5. Head pretty much straight uphill (no trail) to get from Tracking to La Bête.
6. Continue up-hill, angling about 45 degrees to the left to find Orthanc.
7. Mo-no-rail, Flesh Eater, Triangle Therapy, The Expanse, I Miss Us, etc. are just 20 m up the hill from the trail (and visible through the trees)
8. Burden of Genes is on the peak of the hill going from Tracking the opposite direction as La Bête.
9. Frickin Fabulous Fridge (and the other possible boulders) are along a bike path that winds from 1.
LEGEND
🔥- Best of the best
⭐⭐⭐- Excellent
⭐⭐- Good
⭐- Interesting
🤡 –Just for fun
☠️ - Very dangerous
La Bête (& La Belle)
45°55'48.12"N, 74°16'8.98"W
Orthanc
Orthanc
1. The Winding Stair (V1/2)⭐⭐
FA Maxime Banel
- sit/crouch start matched on slanting “jug”, and climb the face to the left
2. What Do You Smell? (V4)⭐
FA Maxime Banel
- start as above, transition under the tree, climb to the peak
3. Man-Flesh! (V7)⭐
FA Maxime Banel
- start as above, traverse on crimps to right arête, exit as Orthanc Direct
4. Orthanc (V6)🔥
FA Maxime Banel
- sit start with left hand on a very low side-pull and right hand on the arête, attain the arête, transition to also use the left arête, and exit at the peak
5. Orthanc Direct (V6)⭐⭐
FA Maxime Banel
- start as Orthanc but don’t use the left arête, transition high-up to the slab
La Bête – back side
7. Précis (V1)🤡
FA Andrew Hendry
Step on pedestal, use a finger or thumb catch to balance, match the hold, then exit left of peak
8. Imprécis (V3)⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
Left hand on high sloper, right hand on crimp at crack, exit right
9. Le Tabouret (V3)⭐⭐
FA Adrien Lévesque
Stand start matched on good hold, make one move right to large ledge, mantel and reach
10. Giants On My Shoulders (V1)⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
Start as Le Tabouret, continue along the crack, exit up the slab
11. Spread Em (V4)⭐
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Crouch start as shown at right and join Le Tabouret
12. Smokey and the Bandit (V2)⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
Stand start with hands on the crimps and up she goes
La Bête – left side
13. Hustle and Flow (V4)⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
Start on sloping holds
Stack pads or crouch as needed; left toe-hook can help the start
14. Harder Brutus (V9/10)⭐⭐
FA Adrien Lévesque
Sit start (left image )
Make a big move left to the good lip hold. Climb up the bulge using the crack (right image )
15. Selfish People Live Longer (V6)🔥 FA Yann Gauthier
Jump start (one pad only) to starting holds (→) . Traverse the crack, exit at the arête, and finish up the slab
16. Égomania (V8)⭐
FA Brandon Heckmann
Stand start on decent crimps, transition through a smaller crimp above, and join Selfish People …
La Bête – right side (high starts)
17. Remember Tomorrow (V2)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
Stand start with right hand on arête and left on obvious side-pull, move right of arête and climb up
18. Pain Au Chocolat – stand (V3)
⭐⭐⭐ FA Jay Jeong
Start as Remember Tomorrow but stay left of arête until logical top-out
19. Ghostbusters (V4/5) ⭐☠️☠️☠️
FA Yann Gauthier
Climb the start of Pain Au Chocolat (stand) and then continue onto the face for a high exit
La Bête – right side (low starts)
20. Pain Au Chocolat – sit (V5)⭐⭐
FA Zach Rodrigue
Sit start matched on the obvious shelf on arete
21. Chocolatine* (V8)⭐⭐⭐
FA Antoine Seguin
Sit start matched on opposing side pulls
22. Bella Bestia (V11/V12)🔥
FA Adrien Lévesque
Start matched on side-pull undercling, cross high to the arete and up
23. Bella Bestia Facile* (V9)⭐
FA Antoine Seguin
Start as Bella Bestia, make a move to the jug, move right and down to join Chocolatine
*after the FA of Bella Bestia, rock removal from the landing allowed the opening of Chocolatine and Bella Bestia Facile
La Belle – right side
24. Mental Mantel (V2)⭐
FA Gabrielle Lusignan
Sit start at the far right, traverse the lip to the saddle, and mantle
25. Right Wing (V6)⭐⭐⭐
FA Brian Fernandes
Start as above and continue to the peak (don’t mantle at saddle)
26. Lune de Miel (V8)⭐⭐
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Crouch start with right hand on undercling gaston and left on crimp/pinch, finish on Right Wing
27. Lune de Sang (V7/8)⭐⭐☠️
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Stand with high foot, right hand on lowest side-pull, left on small face side-pull crimp, exit straight up
La Belle – left side
27. Lune de Sang (V7/8)⭐⭐☠️
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Stand with high foot, right hand on lowest side-pull, left on small face side-pull crimp, exit straight up
28. Lune Lite (V3)⭐
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Start as Lune de Sang but roll left for the exit
29. Power Inverter (V2)⭐⭐🤡
FA Andrew Hendry
Sit start with hands matched on low horizontal shelf, bat-hang ledge, grab ledge, un-invert, exit left on slab.
30. Blood Sacrifice (V4)⭐
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Stand start with right hand on big side pull, find some feet you “like”, get bloody on a big move, exit up the high slab. Possible low start?
The Feat of Giants
45°55'48.45"N, 74°16'9.23"W
(< 10 m to the left when you are facing Top Gun)
31. The Feat of Giants (V2)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
Sit start as shown above with left hand on side-pull and right hand on low side-pull jug, exit left of the peak
Waterfall area
(beside the creek) 45°55'49.61"N, 74°16'12.81"W
Waterfall area (Parallel Lines)
(60 m upstream from Shadow Kings)
1. Parallel Lines (V3)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
Start matched low on the arête (a toe hook can help, make your way to the crack and finish as Taki
2. Taki (V2)⭐⭐⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
Start matched in the crack, climb up the cracks and exit at the top
3. Project
4. Project
5. Outside The Lines – stand (V2)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
Left hand on a funky pocket, right hand on the arête at the same height, exit at the peak
6. Outside The Lines – sit (V4)⭐⭐
FA David Rea
Start matched on the arête, finish as above
Waterfall area (Shadow Kings)
(beside the creek) 45°55'49.61"N, 74°16'12.81"W
7. Tracking (V7)⭐⭐
FA Noah Napier
Stand start with left hand on side-pull rail and right hand on low under-cling
8. Shadow Kings (V3/4)⭐⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
Sit start with crimps as shown below and climb up
9. A Snail’s Pace (V2)⭐
FA Louis-Richard Mercier
Sit start as shown, bump right hand to better hold, throw your left for the rail, fight the pad-dab
10. Flow Like Water (V5/6)⭐⭐⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
Sit start as shown, surf the lip to the arête
Waterfall area (A,G,& C-Spot)
(on the back of the Tracking boulder)
11. A-Spot (V8)⭐
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Sit start as shown below, join G-Spot
12. G-Spot [AKA Prostate Exam] (V6)⭐⭐
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Sit start as shown below, climb the crack and arête
13. C-Spot (V8)⭐
FA Jean-Marc Grenier
Sit start as shown below, make a huge move with your left
14. Too Tall To Ride (V4)⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
Climb the slab, much harder if you are too short to reach the crack
Mo-no-rail area
45°55'49.5"N 74°16'19.2"W
Mo-no-rail area
(Sad Triangle – north side)
1. Turn That Frown (V0-)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- climb up the slab beside the arête
2. Why So Sad? (V1)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start matched on the low sloping shelf, reach for the arête and finish as Turn That Frown
3. Frown Sugar (V2)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start matched on the big in-cut ledge, find your way to the arête, climb up the triangle face, and exit left of the razor-back ridge
4. Triangle Therapy (V3)⭐⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start matched on the smaller low in-cut edge to the left of Frown Sugar, climb up the triangular face, and exit as Frown Sugar
5. Can I Play With Madness? (V4)⭐⭐
FA Adrien Lévesque & Cedar Hendry
- sit start matched on the small crimp at the far left, find your way to the top via the face and then the slab, without using the right arête
5. Can I Play With Madness? (V4)⭐⭐
FA Adrien Lévesque & Cedar Hendry
- sit start matched on the small crimp at the far left, find your way to the top via the face and then the slab, without using the right arête
6. Lost in Space (V2/3)⭐ FA Cornelius Froese
- stand start and climb the slab
7. Doofus (V0-) FA Adrien Lévesque
- stand start and climb the easy dihedral
7. Doofus (V0-)
FA Adrien Lévesque
- stand start and climb the easy dihedral
8. Curious George (V0+)⭐⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
- sit start as shown above and climb up
9. The Expanse (V3)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- stand start with very wide span as shown
10. The Man In the Yellow Hat (V2/3)⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
- sit start with left hand on arête and right hand on side pull
11. Shifting Baseline (V0/1)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start matched on crimp and climb up/left
12. Reverse Engineering (V4)⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
- stand start with left hand low on arête and right on crack crimp
- a lower (sit) start will be possible
13. No Footsies (V2/3)⭐⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
- stand start on good hold to the left side of the lip
- make a few to the right and “mantle motherfucker”
14. Walk Like An Egyptian (Vfun)🤡
- walk up the slab (no hands, no knees) to the left of No Footsies
Mo-no-rail area
(Behemoth)
15. Years Fly By (V2)⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- stand start and climb the slab
16. Feels Like the First Time (V1)⭐⭐⭐☠️
FA Andrew Hendry
17. Comfortably Dumb (V2)
FA Andrew Hendry
- start matched on the side-pull under-cling as shown, no dabbing the rock behind
18. Wake Up Dead (V3)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit (or stand) with both hands at chest height (but not higher if you want the V3 grade)
- harder if you are short
19. Everything Is Balance (V4/5)⭐⭐⭐
FA Yann Gauthier
20. I Miss Us (V4/5)⭐⭐☠️☠️
FA Yann Gauthier
21. Crybaby (V2)⭐⭐☠️☠️
FA Yann Gauthier
22. Middle Management (V5)⭐⭐
FA David Rea
- climb the slab to the jug
23. Ravin d’Racine (V0)⭐⭐
FA Brandon Heckmann
- climb the crack
Mo-no-rail area
(Mo-no-rail)
24. Tunnel Vision (V2/3)⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start matched on low rail, climb up and left without dabbing
25. Mo-no-rail (V4)⭐⭐⭐
FA Adrien Lévesque
- start with hands in crack, use right arête and face holds or mono
26. Mo-no-rail – sit (V5) ⭐⭐
FA Yann Gauthier
- start as Tunnel Vision and join Mo-no-rail
27. Off The Rails (V2/3)⭐
FA Fernando Siete
- stand start matched on sloping side pull, exit on slab
28. Slabducation (V1-)⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
- stand start and climb the slab
Mo-no-rail area
(Cafferine Addict)
29. Caffeine Addict (V3/4)⭐⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
- sit start at the mouth of the cave with hands on the big sloper
- climb along the lower rail and exit up the peak
- harder if you are tall
30. Decaf Detox (V1/2)⭐
FA George Farfour
- sit start at the vase of the arête, pull on, roll around the arête, and climb up the peak
31. Half and Half (V0)⭐
FA by group
- stand start with left hand the rail and right hand on the arête, climb up
32. Bait (V0-)
FA by group
- sit start matched on the big ledge and climb straight up
33. Switch (V0+)
FA by group
- start as Bait but move left to the crimps on the face
Mo-no-rail area
(Lowball Legend)
34. Bust A Move (V2)⭐
FA Adrien Lévesque
- crouch start with opposing side-pulls as shown
35. Flesh Eater (V5)⭐⭐
FA Adrien Lévesque
- sit start on the big (and very low) shelf as shown
- find crazy beta and compress your way up
36. Lowball Legend (V2)⭐⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start matched on the side pull jug/crack, traverse the lip to exit up the far side
37. Ain’t Rocket Science (V2)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- SDS with left hand on lip and right hand VERY low on arête
Mo-no-rail area
(Rocket Science)
38. Few and Far Between (V2/3)⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- stand with left on diagonal rail and right low on arête, make big moves between great holds and exit left of the peak
- for a (V5) sit start (FA Brandon Heckmann) use the same right hand and put your left hand lower on the diagonal rail. It’s a savage first move
39. Fuck The Establishment (V4)
FA Andrew Hendry & Cornelius Froese
- stand start with left on tiny sharp crimp and right hand on arête at the same height, establish with difficulty, exit right of the peak
40. Rocket Science (V6)⭐
FA Cornelius Froese
- sit start with left on arête and right on the crimp, climb up
41. The Best For Last? (V4)🤡 FA Andrew Hendry
- start on your back, establish with a bat-hang , mantel
Burden of Genes
(top of the hill)
45°55'53.46"N, 74°16'16.28"W
Days of Future Past (V1)⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start at far left with hands on arête/lip, traverse the lip, and mantel to the right of the peak.
2. Burden of Genes (V4)⭐⭐
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start matched on low rail, gain the lip, traverse left to the peak, and mantel up to the right of the peak.
Frickin Fabulous Fridge
(beside a bike path)
45°55'50.03"N, 74°16'24.80"W
Frickin Fabulous Fridge (V2)
FA Andrew Hendry
- sit start as shown with hands on the arête (or the hold past the left arête). Go straight up!
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