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General layout of the various southern sectors. The dashed blue line is my favorite approach.
General layout of Les Hêtres.
The Aesthetic (V2) ★★★ (VIDEO 1)
- start matched on the lowest part of the diagonal rail and exit up the notch. A toe-hook on the right arete makes it easy (and fun).
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
1. No Rainbow, No Rocket (V1) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- start on the right side of the big rail and do a huge move to gain the top, stay left of the arete.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
2. The Prancing Pony (V0) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- standing "perched" start with left hand (and left heel) on side-pull rail and right hand on small crimp on the lip.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
Best In Show (V2) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start (as shown above) and climb up the left side of the arete
FA: Andrew Hendry (2025)
A number of other lines are possible on this bloc.
Bow Rider (V3) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start with left hand on a side-pull crimp and right hand pressing up (or underclinging) the big flake.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
2. Le Patinage de Vitesse (V2) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start with left hand low on arete and right hand on a low side pull on the face, surf the lip to exit at the top. The bloc to the right is off.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
A Fine Line (V1) ★★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start and climb the long diagonal rail/arete to the peak
FA: Cedar Hendry (2025)
other lines are possible!
It's Just War (V3) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand start matched on the arete jug (as shown above) and climb up the left side of the arete, using the cool left-hand pinch on the face.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
3. Metta World Peace (V1/2) ★ (VIDEO)
- sit start just to the left of It's Just War with left hand on a slopey crimp and right hand lower on a side-pull in the crack, climb straight up.
FA: Solomon Son (2026)
4. Wedgie of Destiny (V1) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start (stack pads if needed) with left hand in a funky pocket and right hand lower on whatever hold you want, climb directly up.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
5. Peace Sells (Project)
- sit start (on the arete to right Wedgie) with left hand on a low side-pull crimp and right hand on a slopey crimp on the lip, climb up the arete
Like Being High (V3) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start with left hand crimping on the large flake and the right hand on the higher pinch/side-pull (where the right hand is in the image above)
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
Like Being Low (V4) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- same as above, but the right hand is lower (now same height as left hand) on a horizontal ledge/side-pull
- the crux in either case is the move to the lip but it is slightly harder with the lower start because of different body positioning
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
This is one of those boulders with a ton of interesting variations, nearly all of which pass through the big jug circled in the image above.
Kingmaker (V8)🔥(VIDEO 1,)
- start on obvious crimps in the overhang (shown in picture), work along the bulge (line "a") to gain the jug, and then head up and right along the lip to exit at the top (line "e")
FA: Louis-Richard Mercier (2025)
2. Kingmaker Direct (V8) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- start as Kingmaker but head exit straight up after the jug on line "d"
3. Kingmaker Eliminate (V9?) ★★★ (VIDEO 1)
- start as Kingmaker but head straight up the roof (line "b") before exiting (on either line "d" or line "e")
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
4. Queen’s Decree (V3) ★★★ (VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2)
- stand start matched on the jug and head up and right on line "d"
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
5. Royal Decree (V4) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand start matched on the jug and do a big move to a distant crimp high and left on the face (line "c")
FA: Cornelius Froese (2025)
6. Éboueur Royal (V5) (VIDEO 1)
Départ assis sous Queen's Decree (line "f"). MG réglette inversée très basse, MD bonne réglette assez haute.
FA: Jean Raby (2026)
7. Éboueuse Royale (V5)
Même départ qu'Éboueur Royal, sortir dans Royal Decree.
FA: Henry Diaz (2026)
Vhard possibilities:
Start on the big undercling below and right of Kingmaker and climb into Kingmaker.
From the start of Kingmaker, head directly up the roof to exit at the peak.
The following lines are on the back-side of the Kingmaker boulder.
9. Abuse of Power (V3) ★ (VIDEO 1)
- sit start with left hand on a side-pull crimp and right hand on a small side-pull crimp low under the bulge (as shown below). Fire for the lip.
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
This new spot is about 100m directly downhill behind Kingmaker. A number of other good lines are possible in this area.
2. Spotless (V1) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
- stand start as shown below with left hand sidepull crimp just left of the arete and right hand on a crimp at about the same height on the overhanging face
FA: Andrew Hendry (2026)
3. Sans-Laisse (V5/6?) ★★ (VIDEO 1)
Départ debout, grimper le bloc sous le toit pour rejoindre la proue, sortir à la cime.
FA: Jean Raby (2026)
4. Sleepless (V2/3?)
Départ assis/couché sous la rampe, s'établir sur la rampe et sortir tout droit.
FA: Henry Diaz (2026)
Nothing has yet been climbed on this bloc.
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